If you've searched for sliding wardrobe doors before, you've probably landed on the same worry over and over: will this actually fit my space? It's the single most common question people ask on forums before they buy — and it's usually followed by a second one: is it worth paying more for a "made to measure" service, or can a standard kit do the job?
The good news is that measuring for a sliding wardrobe door kit is genuinely straightforward once you know what to check. This guide walks through it step by step, flags the mistakes that trip people up, and explains how fixed-size kits — like the ones we sell — actually work compared to bespoke options.
Fixed-Size Kits vs Made-to-Measure: What's the Difference?
Before you pick up a tape measure, it's worth understanding what you're measuring for.
Made-to-measure kits are built to your exact opening, down to the millimetre. They're flexible but usually take longer to arrive and cost more, since every panel is cut to order. If your opening is significantly non-standard, our sister site offers a full made-to-measure sliding wardrobe doors service.
Fixed-size kits — the category we specialise in here — come in a set range of standard widths and a standard height (2260mm across our range). Instead of custom-cutting a door for your space, you choose the closest standard size and, where needed, use trim or filler panels to close small gaps. For the vast majority of UK bedroom openings, a standard size gets you a clean, professional finish for considerably less than bespoke pricing.
Knowing which route you need changes what you're actually measuring for — so that's the first decision, before the tape measure comes out.
What You'll Need
- A steel tape measure (not fabric — it stretches and throws off small measurements)
- A spirit level, if you have one
- A pencil and paper, or your phone's notes app
- A second person, ideally, for wider openings
Step 1: Measure the Height
Measure from the floor to the top of the opening at three points: left, right, and centre. Floors are rarely perfectly level, and ceilings or existing frames can sag slightly over time — you need the shortest of the three measurements, since that's your limiting dimension.
Our kits are engineered for a standard 2260mm opening height. If your opening measures close to that (within the kit's stated tolerance), you're in good shape. If it's noticeably taller or shorter, that's when a made-to-measure option becomes worth considering.
Step 2: Measure the Width
Same principle, three points this time: top, middle, and bottom of the opening. Take the narrowest of the three — skirting boards, door frames, and slightly-out-of-square walls are the usual culprits for a width that isn't consistent top to bottom.
This is the measurement that determines which kit configuration you need. Our fixed-size kits are available in a range of standard widths across 2-door, 3-door, and 4-door configurations — for example, our 2-door kits alone come in ten standard widths from around 1145mm up to 1803mm, so there's more flexibility than "one size" might suggest. You can filter by exact opening width on any collection page to see what's available.
Step 3: Check the Depth (Don't Skip This One)
This is the measurement people forget. Sliding door kits need a minimum depth to house the track and let the doors glide past each other — usually around 60mm minimum, though it's worth confirming against the specific kit's spec sheet. If you're fitting into a shallow alcove or around a chimney breast, check this before you order, not after.
Common Measuring Mistakes
- Measuring only once, in the middle. Always take three measurements per dimension and use the smallest.
- Ignoring skirting boards. If skirting runs into the opening, you'll either need to notch the boards or account for the reduced width.
- Forgetting the floor covering. If new carpet or flooring is going in after the wardrobe, measure to the finished floor height, not the current one.
- Not checking for square. A quick diagonal measurement (corner to corner, both ways) tells you if the opening is square. If the two diagonals differ by more than about 10mm, mention it when you order — it affects fitting, not just sizing.
What If Your Opening Doesn't Match a Standard Size?
This is the question that sends most people to a made-to-measure service by default — but it's worth checking your options first:
- If you're within roughly 10-20mm of a standard width, trim panels or end fillers (included with most kits) can close the gap neatly.
- If your opening is significantly non-standard, it may be worth a small amount of building work (packing out the frame) rather than paying the premium for full bespoke doors.
- If neither works, that's genuinely when made-to-measure becomes the right call — it's not that fixed-size is always cheaper, it's that it's cheaper when your opening allows for it, which is most UK bedrooms.
Frequently Asked Questions
How do I know if a sliding wardrobe door kit will fit my room?
Measure height, width, and depth at three points each, using the smallest measurement for each dimension. Compare against the kit's stated size and tolerance — for our range, that's a 2260mm height with widths from around 1145mm to 3600mm+ depending on door count.
What's the minimum depth needed for sliding wardrobe doors?
Most sliding door kits need a minimum of around 60mm depth to house the track mechanism, though this varies by product — always check the specific kit's spec sheet before ordering.
Do sliding wardrobe doors need to be exactly the right size?
No. Fixed-size kits include trim and filler panels to close small gaps of 10-20mm, so your opening doesn't need to match a standard width exactly.
Is made-to-measure always better than a fixed-size kit?
Not necessarily. Made-to-measure suits openings that fall well outside standard sizes, but for most UK bedroom openings, a fixed-size kit gives the same finished look for less money and a shorter lead time.